In 2019 I was called to walk the Camino Frances in honor of my 70^th birthday.  I wanted to do something meaningful and challenging to inspire me as I was entering my 7^th decade of life.  Those who have walked the Camino know it is a wonderful adventure when one is in a life transition.  I was a novice at this sort of thing and did not understand the importance of taking care of one’s feet when one is walking 20 – 30 kilometers a day with a 20 lb. pack.  I found myself during the early stages of my Camino dealing with constant blisters that kept getting worse and worse as I continued, with every step becoming more and more painful.  I kept thinking that they would get better, so I just kept going.  I did take a couple of days off in Burgos hoping they would get better, and I did try and go to the Medico, but the language barrier was too great. 

              I left Burgos on a Sunday morning and limped to Hornellos del Camino and the next day to Castrojeriz.  The following day I met Neus de Saavadra walking up the long hill out of Castrojeriz.  I passed her on the hill because I could walk fast uphill, but she passed me later when we were going downhill.  We ended up staying in the same Albergue in Fromista but it wasn’t until I stopped at a garden bar on the way to Carrion de los Condes that we actually had a significant conversation.  She asked me about my feet, and I shared with her what I was dealing with and that each step was painful.  When we arrived in Carrion, she offered to take me to a Clinic for pilgrims and serve as my translator.  She was kind and compassionate and encouraging.  So we went, and while the Medico’s and staff were working on my feet, I kept hearing the work “Loco”.  Afterward I asked her if they were talking about me.  We had a good laugh.  Both of my feet were infected, and the skin was coming off the bottom.  They cleaned up my feet and told me that I could not walk any distance for at least a week to ten days.  Sadly, I decided to return home.

              In my conversations with Neus I learned that she was from Catalonia near Barcelona and was walking the Camino as a celebration of her cancer being in remission.  In fact, prior to meeting her she had just returned from Barcelona because she had to leave the Camino for 2 weeks to get her final Kemo treatment, and she had just returned.  It was then that I started referring to her as “My Camino Angel” because of her kindness and her willingness to help me out.  The universe organized it in such a way for her to be there to help me.  I returned home and Neus went on to finish the Camino, but we stayed in touch and exchanged emails and followed each other on Facebook.  During COVID we zoomed a couple of times because I was seeking to come back to finish my Camino.  When I finally confirmed that I would be able to finish in September of 2021, Neus jumped in and helped me book my accommodations.  Since Albergue’s were limited to being ½ full, it was recommended to book ahead.  I arrived in Madrid on September 8 and took a train to Palencia and a cab to Fromista, which was my starting point.  When I was in transit she called to check on my progress and I was about 15 minutes from Fromista.  I arrived and checked in my Albergue and got to my bunk bed and as I was taking off my pack a felt a tap on my shoulder and turned around to see Neus standing behind me.  There was my Camino Angel in the flesh, what a pleasant surprise.  She had decided to do a Camino from Burgos to Leon and then from Leon to Ovideo and then on the Primativo to Santiago.  She was going to walk with me to Leon, which I was very happy about. 

              It turns out she was not through with Cancer and had been doing more treatments.  She told me about it as we walked to Carrion de los Condes the next day.   I also noticed she was limping a bit and she shared that she had a bad nail on her big toe that was giving her a hard time.  Ironically when we got to Carrion she decided to go to the Medico and get it wrapped so she could continue.  It turned out they had to remove her toenail and she could not continue.  I was able to run errands for her to the Farmacia just like she had for me 2 years before.  She did end up meeting me in Leon, she took a bus to meet and spend time with a dear friend of hers.  I went on and finished my Camino and again we stayed in touch.  I felt so good that I wanted to do the entire Camino again and scheduled it for Sept/Oct of 2022.  I did not see her when I did that Camino, but she helped me with reservations along the way.  This past year her Cancer returned with a vengeance, and she passed away on September 20^th when I was attempting the Camino del Norte.  Her partner/sweetheart called me several days after she died. 

              Neus was an authentic, kind, compassionate being.  She was my Camino Angel and a dear Spanish friend.  I think of her often when I am on my daily hikes.  One of the great blessings of the Camino’s I have walked are the authentic connections with other beings who are in transition, making changes, in-between something, or just seeking clarity and understanding in their life.  I value them because they are genuine.   You can read more about this journey by getting my book “Heaven is Walking the Camino de Santiago” on Amazon or my book “Heaven is Walking the Spiritual Path”.  Both are available in either paperback or Kindle versions. 

Buen Camino,

Stephen Towles